Sunday 29 March 2015

Seven Ads for Seven Days (March 2015/w14)


Vetiver de Guerlain, year 1995


Yatagan de Caron, year 1976 

Clair de Jour, year 1983 

Envy for Men, year 1998 

Gauloise de Molyneux, year 1981

Je reviens, year 1975

Leonard pour Homme, year 1981




Monday 23 March 2015

Seven Ads for Seven Days (March 2015 /w13)



PUBLICITE-ADVERTISING-015-1995-GUERLAIN-parfum-homme-HERITAGE
Heritage, year 1992 ad

Opium, year 1981 ad



Monsieur Carven , year 1984 ad


Dior-Dior, year 1977 ad

Azzaro pour Femme, year 1978 ad


PUBLICITE-ADVERTISING-015-1975-REVLON-un-grand-parfum-femme-CHARLIE
Charlie de Revlon, year 1975 ad


PUBLICITE-ADVERTISING-024-1980-CAPUCCI-parfum-PUNJAB-eau-de-toilette
Punjab de Capucci, year 1980 ad

Sunday 15 March 2015

Seven Ads for Seven Days (March 2015/ w12)


Yves Saint Laurent, year 2001


Jean Patou, year 1978




GUCCI, year 1981



Yves Saint Laurent, year 1979


GUCCI, year 1992


Gianni Versace, year 1982


Courreges, year 1983

Wednesday 11 March 2015

CHANEL batch-codes: solving the major issue.





PROBLEM: as many perfume lovers know, there are apparently TWO different four-digits Chanel batchcodes, in contrast each other. What's the correct one?  
SOLUTION: We should have some fresh-factory perfumes to check.... and luckily we got a few "Bleu de Chanel" for verifying it.



Chanel batchcodes aren't easy to understand because are monthly-based, i.e, the batch change with "months", instead of "years". 
So we could have (it's only an example) "00" for March, "01" for April, "02" for May, etc. At "99", the cycle restarts: it needs roughly 9 years to complete.
For a complete list of Chanel batch codes, see HERE
The biggest issue is that apparently (I told *apparently*...) Chanel affirmed to have restarted the cycle on January 2000 (NEW batch code). So , "01" = January 2000, "02" = February 2000, "03" = March 2000, "04" = April 2000 etc. 
On the contrary, according the old classical batch code, started in the 1970s, January 2000 should be "05" ; February 2000  = "06" , etc.
Putting it side-by-side:
DATE               CLASSICAL code -  NEW code
January 2000           05                           01
February 2000         06                           02
March 2000             07                           03
April 2000               08                           04
May 2000                09                           05
June 2000                10                           06
as you can see there is a difference of 4 (four) months.
(anyway, for vintage purposes it's not so important: just four months are not a dramatic difference)

However, I wanted to solve this issue, so asked my friend Alessandra (sales assistant) to call me at the arriving of "Bleu de Chanel EdP" new stocks. Why "Bleu de Chanel EdP"? Because it was launched in late 2014, so it's a recent fragrance. 
She finally phoned me and I arrived a few day later, to check the batchcodes.


Please note: all pictures shot on Saturday, March 7th, 2015 

Chanel Bleu, Eau de Parfum 100ml,
batch 8302, and:
Chanel Bleu, Eau de Parfum, Tester 100 ml
batch 8301
According the classical batch code:  83xx =  "July 2006" or "November 2014"
According the new batch code: 83xx  = "November 2006" or "March 2015"



Chanel Bleu After Shave 100 ml
batch 8401
According the classical batch code:  84xx =  "August 2006" or "December 2014"
According the new batch code: 84xx  = "December 2006" or "April 2015"


Chanel Bleu, Eau de Parfum 50 ml
batch 8501

According the classical batch code:  85xx =  "September 2006" or "January 2015"
According the new batch code: 85xx  = "January 2007" or  "May 2015"


CONCLUSIONS

According the new stocks arrived in shops at the beginning of March, 2015, the "new" batch code started in January 2000 appears to be un-realistic. New Blue de Chanel EdP bottles (arrived in stores on March 7, 2015) can't be batched "April, 2015" or even "May, 2015".
So -until further proofs- the old, classical Chanel code appear to be the correct one. 

Monday 9 March 2015

Seven Ads for Seven Days (March 2015/w11)



FIDJI de Guy Laroche - year 1969 ad

DIORELLA de Christian Dior - Year 1974 ad



TAMANGO de Leonard - Year 1980 ad

MONSIEUR and GENTLEMAN de Givenchy Year 1983 ad

MAXIM'S pour Homme -year 1988 ad

JAZZ de Yves Saint Laurent - Year 1988 ad

POUR MONSIEUR de Chanel - Year 1993 ad





Tuesday 3 March 2015

KOUROS: The Scent of Gods (2/2)




This is second and last part, and you will find:
-Kouros Party in Paris (February 20th, 1981)
-Flankers (1986-2014)
-Body Line
-Special Bottles
-Gift Sets & Accessories
-Miniatures
-Advertising
-Miscellaneous

the first part is HERE



-----------------------
The KOUROS Party
-----------------------

On February 20th, 1981, a great party was held in Paris for the launch of "KOUROS". World famous dancer Rudolph Nureyev performed three ballets at the "Opera Comique" for the invited guests, then a dinner at "Maxim's" followed.
The party for "the most expensive male scent ever produced" (as for 1981) had a cost of nearly 200.000 dollars.


Yves Saint Laurent and Zizi Jeanmaire during 
the KOUROS Gala in Paris 
(Feb. 20, 1981)

From Getty Images Archives:
Zizi Jeanmaire and Yves Saint Laurent attending at the Opera

Yves Saint Laurent, Zizi Jeanmaire, and Rudolf Nureyev 
at the Opera.

From Getty Images Archives:
Zizi Jeanmaire, Yves Saint Laurent,
Yvette Chauvire and Rudolf Nueyev

From Getty Images Archives: 
Zizi Jeanmaire and Yves Saint Laurent congratulating 
with Rudolf Nureyev


(from Getty Image Archives) 


Rudolf Nureyev (left), Zizi Jeanmaire,
Yves Saint Laurent, and Paloma Picasso (right) at Maxim's
Note the factice bottles on the right (rhmiller.com)


Yves Saint Laurent and Bob Miller 
(Charles of the Ritz) (rhmiller.com)

From Corbis Archives:
Zizi Jeanmaire, Rudolf Nureyev, and Yves Saint Laurent 

From Getty Images Archives.

Yves Saint Laurent with two friends and Paloma Picasso (right) 



What the press said....
(from Basenotes) "Kouros debut lacked sweet smell of success...."



----------------------
Flankers
----------------------
During years, Kouros had several "flankers" (i.e. different versions, or special editions). 
In 1986, at the beginning of "Parfums Corp." Era, Yves Saint Laurent launched the first flanker. A gentle, refined, more "classy" and less "brutal" version of Kouros, naming it "Eau de Sport" (and later simply "Sport").
Then, in 1993, a second flanker arrived, named "Fraicheur", a lighter, more citric and elegant version. Both are very rare and hard to find nowadays, gaining a "cult" status.
Anyway, there are major complaints about a lot of the following versions (appeared since 2002) because appear very similar to each other. 
In details:

"Eau de Sport", or
"Eau Sport" (1986-1993)
picture by Ericrico, (from Basenotes)
picture by Ericrico, (from Basenotes)

picture by Ericrico, (from Basenotes)

picture by Ericrico, (from Basenotes)

pictures from Parfumo.net (above and below)

(pictures below provided by Jason Newton,
www.uneasynostalgia.com)
Kouros Eau de Sport, Batch 8068, year 1988
interesting picture, because the box is an old-type
"Charles of the Ritz" Era (used until 1986)


 Early "Eau de Sport" bottle

A late bottle (year 1992), simply renamed "Kouros Sport"

batch PA23241PP = equivalent to 2324 = year 1992
You can see the "Parfums Corp." label here

from the web, unknown author

Early (1988, on right) and late (1992, on left
Kouros Eau de Sport bottles
(www.uneasynostalgia.com, by Jason Newton)



-----------------------------
Fraicheur (first box, 1993-1998)
from the web, unknown author

(photos by Jason Newton

note the label "Parfums Corp." 



Fraicheur (second box, 1999-2001)
(same fragrance, different packaging)

thanks to MDCLX, Basenotes.net 

------------------------------------------
Eau d'Ete (2002)
Kouros Eau d'Été (2002) von Yves Saint Laurent

-------------------------------
Cologne Sport (2003)



---------------------------------------
Eau d'Ete Cologne Sport Summer Fragrance (2004)
Kouros Summer 2004 cologne for Men by Yves Saint Laurent
Bottled in a sort of "dive suit" instead of a traditional box.



Thanks to Andrew "The Cologne Guy" on Basenotes.net,
flankers years 2003 (right) and 2004 (left)


--------------------------------------------------
Eau d'Ete Summer Fragrance (2005)

-----------------------------------------------------
Eau d'Ete (2006)


------------------------------------------------------
Tattoo (2007)

---------------------------
"Tonique Energizing EDT" (2008)
Kouros By Yves Saint Laurent For Men. Energizing Eau De Toilette Spray 3.3-Ounce

Thanks to Andrew "The Cologne Guy" on Basenotes.net,
left to right: flankers years 2002, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008

-------------------------------------------------------
"Tonique Energizing EDT" (2010)


----------------------------------------------------------------------
"Tonique Energizing EDT" (2013)


----------------------------------------------------------------------
"Tonique Energizing EDT" (2014)
Thanks to Rivegauche, from Parfumo.net.
-------------------------------------------------------------
"Kouros Silver" (2015)




------------------------
BODY LINE
-------------------
Three different body lines were launched: "Formule Sport" (1986), "Formule Soin" (1987), and "En Plein Air" (1991).

KOUROS Formule Sport (1986)

Cooling Body Lotion

Tinted Face Emulsion

-------------------------------------------------------
KOUROS Formule Soin (1987) 
Shaving foam

-----------------------------------------------------
KOUROS En Plein Air (1991) 


Soothing balm (from Basenotes.net)

Face moisturizer

-----------------------------------------
SPECIAL BOTTLES
-----------------------------------------

Sometimes a few "special bottles" appears on popular auction sites.
A few of these "rare" bottle are fakes
Still waiting to get authentic bottles for a photo shoot.


Traveller Edition
during year 2002 YSL edited a limited edition 
2x25 ml "Travel spray bottles".
It's probably the rarest twin-bottle ever.













---------------------------------------------------------------
GIFT SETS 
-----------------------------------------------




100ml Spray + Shower Gel
(Sanofi, 1990s)

100ml Spray + Deo Stick
(PPR-Gucci, 2000s)

100ml Spray + Shover Gel
(L'Oreal, 2010s)





























------------------------
 ACCESSORIES
------------------------




Shaving Foam



Hair and Body Wash


Deodorant stick

Roll-on deodorant


Cologne Sport Face Care (year 2003)

Perfumed Deodorant Spray

---------------------------
MINIATURES
---------------------------


 


5 ml - 0.17 oz.


15 ml / 0.5 oz.



15ml  / 0.5 oz mini 

15ml. / 0.5 oz Cologne Sport (year 2003)


---------------------------
ADVERTISING
-------------------------

YEARS 1981-1982


YEARS 1983-1984



YEAR 1985


YEAR 1986


YEARS 1986-1988

YEAR 1986


YEARS 1986-1987

YEAR 1987

YEAR 1992

YEAR 1996


YEAR 1995-1999

YEAR 2001


YEAR 2002

YEAR 2006

YEAR 2008


Adverisement after year 2005




--------------------------------
MISCELLANEOUS
-----------------------------


 YEAR 1981 brochures


KOUROS Racing Team
Sauber Mercedes C8 (year 1986)
Sauber Mercedes C9 (year 1987)
C8, year 1986
C9,  year 1987



Poster
Kouros Racing Team, year 1986: Pescarolo-Nielsen.

Advertisement year 1986

Volkswagen KOUROS, Paris-Dakar, year 1987, pilot H.Auriol


FACTICES 

Factice giant bottle, for exposition only.

SAMPLE


KOUROS Watch
Sticker Year 1987

Kouros Bag / Sac de Voyage

RARE-PINS-PINS-BATEAU-BOAT-VOILIER-VOILE-PARFUM-PERFUME-KOUROS-88-4C

A marvelous Artwork: seven KOUROS bottles
set inside a mirror

(first part here)

(I am grateful to all my friends and buddies from Fragrantica and Basenotes 
for helping me with a lot of useful insights)