raidersofthelostscent: June 2015

Thursday, 25 June 2015

Seven Ads for Seven Days (June 2015 /w26)

Year 1989

Year 1997

Year 1996

Year 1992

Year 1999

Year 1970

Year 1968

previous ads:

Monday, 22 June 2015

GUEST REVIEW: "Capucci pour Homme", by T.Grottola.

Tony Grottola is a well-known name in reviewing perfumes, and this time he will illustrate one of his personal favourites:
CAPUCCI POUR HOMME (1967)

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"Capucci pour Homme? This is the men's fragrance I've been looking for all along!
If you've read my reviews before and looked at my collection, you should probably be able to gather that I'm a fan of chypres, especially citrus chypres. I used to really like Eau Sauvage, but over time it's been reformulated and the citrus was flattened a lot.

The original Eau Sauvage lives on in Capucci Pour Homme, but with a pleasant surprise - a Jo Malone-esque lime and basil accord in the top that lasts through the drydown. It blends flawlessly with the fruity-chypre heart and peppery neroli accord; not just that, but I can smell some hefty oakmoss in the base, and, like all good chypres, it resonates a "warmth" from my skin, a type of warmth that I can only smell in a well-made chypre.

Capucci Pour Homme is a great everyday fragrance, especially for someone like me - it's intellectual, but caring and loving; it's intelligent but not a smart ass, and it's classy without being pretentious. It lasts for at least six hours on the back of my hand, and over seven on my wrists and arms. If you're a fan of classic men's fragrances, chypres, citrus fragrances, citrus chypres, or all of the above, then you need to try Capucci Pour Homme before there's no more left. It really is a hidden gem.

Capucci Pour Homme also has powderiness in it, which brings it sort of close to Chanel Pour Monsieur, or, Chanel for Men in the vintage formulation. Also something peculiar is a noticeable lavender note, and when you think lavender, you probably think of a fougere.

Yet, Capucci Pour Homme smells like, and is more structurally like a chypre. So how about that? It's sort of a chypre-fougere hybrid, a rare occurrence in perfumery. When the weather gets too warm for Patou Pour Homme, I'll break out the Capucci Pour Homme and bask in its glory."

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Who is Tony Grottola?

Tony Grottola is a young fragrance fanatic who has had a passion for, and fascination with perfumery and all things related since he was eleven years old. He has written numerous reviews on various websites on the Internet for fragrances, and has also made fragrance-related videos on YouTube.
While recent changes in life have caused Tony to fall a bit out of touch with the fragrance world, he still maintains it as his favorite passion, and currently (2015) is a fragrance salesman at Macy's, as well.

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"Capucci pour Homme" (year 1967)

Timeline

1960s and 1970s (early bottles)

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1970s and early 1980s (different box, same bottle)

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1980s (different fonts on the bottle)

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1989-1998 (different box and bottle)

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SINCE 1998 (different box)

1998-2014 (produced by "Weruska&Joel")
2015-ongoing (produced by "Extraordinary Fragrances")

Wednesday, 17 June 2015

Seven Ads for Seven Days (June2015 /w25)

Year 1971

Year 1978

Year 1987

Year 1992

Year 2003

Year 1994

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previous ads:

June2015 /w24
June2015 /w23
May2015 /w22
May2015 /w21
May 2015 /w20
May 2015/ w19
April 2015/ w18
April 2015/ w17

Monday, 15 June 2015

GUEST REVIEW: "Diorling", by Caro Fernandez.

If you are a passionate Perfume lover, you will start surfing the web.... and sooner or later you will arrive at "Tè de Violetas" (tedevioletas.com), the bilingual (English/Spanish) site run by Caro Fernandez and Virginia Blanco.
We at "Raiders" are therefore glad to give the floor to well-known expert Caro Fernandez.
Caro will talk about one of her greatest favourite: "Diorling", by Christian Dior.

"Diorling", Eau de Cologne

In 1963 nose Paul Vacher created Diorling, a leather chypre and a thing of beauty. The 1950s and 1960s were a golden age for chypres. Characterized by the trinity bergamot-patchouli-oakmoss- their self-assured, structured and mature sensuality fitted the fashions of the era like a glove (no pun intended).

Diorling, year 1963 ad, with "Amphora" bottle

Due to current restrictions modern chypres are mostly composed using low-atranol oakmoss or without any oakmoss at all, but they rarely satisfy purists, much less us nostalgics. I worship my vintage chypres in their full oakmossy glory. It must be noted that, contrary to a widely extended belief, Coty Chypre (1917) was not the first chypre perfume nor the first one known under that name.

Year 1963 alternate ad, with the Baccarat bottle

My bottle of Diorling eau de cologne dates from the 1970s or early 1980s. Its opening is citrusy, green and a bit sharp; the fragrance soon morphs into a warm, indolic leather redolent of white flowers -most notably jasmine- which rests on a softly animalic base. Diorling eau de cologne keeps a subtle sparkle throughout its evolution, well into the drydown. The longevity is excellent for an eau de cologne though we should bear in mind that these flacons come from a time when concentrations were higher and perfume-phobia was not as widely extended as it is today.

Year 1965 ad

The precious extrait de parfum opens a bit too pungent, almost aggressive but slowly becomes greener and more flowery. It slowly blooms into a gorgeous white-floral buttery leather with a marked patchouli note in the drydown, which prevents one from becoming too relaxed. Although the parfum gets softer and smoother as time progresses, it never lets go of its chypre character and animalic breath. There is new Diorling version (year 2012) by Francois Demachy, which I haven’t yet tried.

Caro Fernandez

Who is Caro Fernandez?
Buenos Aires-based Caro Fernandez applies her knowledge on fragrance as editor of the bilingual blog "Té de Violetas" (tedevioletas.com) where she delves into the cultural, artistical and historical aspects of perfumery.
She also collaborates with international perfume brands as translator, consultant and copywriter.

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