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Tuesday, 25 March 2014

CACHAREL pour HOMME (1981)

Posted on March 25, 2014 by niten

ENTER the NUTMEG.



Probably the best nutmeg-based scent ever created.


Year: 1981
Top: Bergamot, nutmeg, lavender.
Heart: Nutmeg, geranium, carnation. 
Base: Sandalwood, cedar, vetiver, fir, nutmeg.
Perfumer: Gerard Goupy
Bottle: Annegret Beier
Longevity: high (7 hours)
Sillage: high
Rating: 10/10 (until year 2000; 9/10, until 2005; 7/10, since)

How to recognize it: 
1- From 1981 until 1992, address "14 Rue Royale" appears on the bottle; 
(since, "16, Place Vendome")

"14 Rue Royale" written on the bottle (1981-1992)

2- Until 1997 , the "duck" (or "cacharel", in French) is depicted on the box and the bottle. After 1998, the duck disappears.

 


3 - Until 2005, the word "CACHAREL" is written inside the elliptical "cartouche" .
Since, CACHAREL logo appears without "cartouche"
         

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What to buy: 
Until 2003-2004 the scent remains solid and acceptable. Avoid version after 2004, much lighter and watered down. Try to obtain older versions, with the "duck" depicted on the box.

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LADIES and GENTLEMEN ! ...HER MAJESTY THE NUTMEG!
I can't suppose how many perfume aficionados love the nutmeg. A lot, I guess.
However, not many people know that one of the best examples of this spice in perfumery, in his dry, steady, persistent tone (without being unconveniently "gourmand"), already exists since 1981. In this year the second scent launched by Cacharel (after the success of Anais Anais in 1978) appeared on shelves. 
The scent is named simply "pour Homme", created by the nose Gerard Goupy, a name that probably does not say much, but it is the author of the fabulous "Magie Noire" by Lancome, launched a few years earlier. 
End of Seventies, beginning of Eighties...when each scent was studied , balanced, prepared . ...."as a  masterpiece should be", one is tempted to say
"Cacharel pour Homme" is a wonderful scent that turns around the Nutmeg note, like a sort of sun with all satellites around. Each satellite contributes with its own note, so we can smell, in the order, an extraordinary nutmeg flankered with lavender, carnation, sandalwood, and vetiver. Let's say it: it's nothing of incredibly complex, but something of wonderfully structured.
Recommended for :  people desiring a scent with an unmistakable personality.
Not recommended for : those who can not bear the nutmeg note.

Signore e Signori...Sua Maestà la Noce Moscata!
A quanti appassionati di profumi non dispiace la noce moscata? Non molti tuttavia sanno che uno dei più splendidi esempi dell'utilizzo di questa spezia in profumeria, nella sua tonalità secca, decisa e persistente, senza essere sconvenientemente "gourmand", esiste già dal 1981. In questo anno compare infatti la seconda opera di Cacharel dopo il successo (enorme) di Anais Anais (1978). Il profumo si intitola semplicemente "pour Homme",  opera del naso Gerard Goupy, un nome che probabilmente non dirà molto, ma che è l'autore dello splendido Magie Noire di Lancome, risalente a qualche anno prima. Quando ogni profumo era centellinato, studiato, ragionato, soppesato, ...e a modo suo un capolavoro, verrebbe voglia di dire
"Cacharel pour Homme" è un profumo splendido che ruota intorno alla nota di noce moscata, a mò di sole con tutti i satelliti intorno. Ogni satellite nel corso dell'evoluzione del profumo contribuisce con una propria nota. Quindi si assisterà, nell'ordine, a una noce moscata con un fiorire di riflessi di lavanda, garofano, sandalo e vetiver. Niente di incredibilmente complesso, come si vede, ma un qualcosa di mirabilmente strutturato.
Indicato per: chi desidera un profumo davvero con personalità inconfondibile.
Non indicato per: chi non sopporta la tonalità della noce moscata, seppur declinata in molte salse.
















































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Year 1981

Year 1983

Year 1986 

Year 1989

Year 1990

Year 1993

Year 1995

Year 1997

Year 2000

Year 2005


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