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Tuesday, 4 March 2014

K de Krizia (1980)

Posted on March 04, 2014 by niten



Year: 1980
Producer:  "FPdP" ("Florbath Profumi di Parma", 1980-1999) ; Morris (since 2000)
Nose: Maurice Roucel
Bottle: Pierre Dinand


Top: Aldehydes, Coriander, Peach, Hyacinth, Neroli. 
Heart: Tuberose, Jasmine, Narcissus, Orange blossom, Rose, Carnation, Orchid, Lily-of-the-valley, Beeswax, Ylang-ylang.
Base: Vetiver, Sandalwood, Leather, Patchouli, Amber, Oakmoss, Styrax, Vanilla and Musk.
Longevity: high
Sillage: very high
Rating: 9/10 (vintage version only)


First perfume created by Maurice Roucel, a brilliant 29-years old chemist grew up at Chanel under Henri Robert. 

It was the usual olfactive bomb, typical of the 1980s, with a very long pyramid, in which each one could find any note he wants. Briefly, K de Krizia was a strong floral aldehydic scent, with a very persistent musk-leather drydown. 
Unfortunately, reformulations destroyed the original scent. The original version from the Eighties smells much better. Out-of-its-time today, but still a great scent.


Questo profumo ha una storia singolare: l'azienda Florbath (di Parma, nota per la Eau de Toilette "Niki Lauda" e per una non troppo lusinghiera avventura come sponsor nel campionato di Formula1) stringe un accordo con la Maison Krizia nel 1978 per la produzione di profumi. Entra in gioco a questo punto un giovane chimico di belle speranze, Maurice Roucel, in precedenza addetto alle cromatografie presso Chanel). K de Krizia sarà uno dei suoi primi profumi, lanciato nel 1980, e già al primo tentativo si può intravvedere tutto il talento futuro.
Piramide lunghissima (forse anche troppo), fragranza "caleidoscopica". Ciascun osservatore vi identifica un aspetto peculiare. In linea generale, si tratta di un aldeidato fiorito, molto persistente, con finale intenso muschio-cuoio. Tipica bomba olfattiva degli Anni Ottanta, che oggi può lasciare perplessi.
Purtroppo la riformulazione attuale suona assai sintetica. Da riscoprire nella sua versione originale degli anni 80.








FPdP = "Florbath Profumi di Parma"
































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