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Showing posts with label reformulation. Show all posts
Showing posts with label reformulation. Show all posts

Wednesday, 2 December 2015

BLEU de Chanel: yesterday and today (2010-2015).

Posted on December 02, 2015 by niten



I received an incredible amount of requests, asking to sampling different batches of Bleu de Chanel in order to find differences and "reformulations" in these five years. Honestly, I'm not a big fan of Bleu. Let me explain the reason: I'm used to Pour Monsieur, Pour Monsieur Concentrèe, Antaeus, Egoiste...and when I sampled Bleu for the first time I remained a bit concerned: I had the impression to have already smelled a few of similar perfumes with fruity/woody notes. 
Bleu de Chanel is the perfect "clean", "inoffensive", "crowd-pleaser" scent. But it lacks very important factors: personality and originality. 
Antaeus was the Animalic Beast, Egoiste was the Sandalwood King, Pour Monsieur was the Old Gentleman, and Bleu is ...the Harmless One. 


I remember an anecdote: when Bleu hit the shelves in 2010, a lot of people sampled it against its direct competitor ( i.e."Dior Homme/ Intense") and had a very few doubts about the winner: Dior Homme/Intense had bigger complexity and personality than Bleu, which smelled too much as a "generic" scent. Surprisingly (or not  surprisingly?), Bleu obtained an huge success everywhere, defeating Dior Homme/Intense in sellings. In a comeback attempt, Dior launched Sauvage in 2015, the perfect competitor for Bleu....but this is another story. 
Bleu is the mirror of our times: a "fits-for-all" scent, in order to please everyone and everywhere in a now-global market.
I must admit being a bit embarrassed when I was asked to check "reformulations" in Bleu, or to detect "Vintage & Modern" versions, since it could appear somewhat exaggerated. But, having all samples (big thanks to Gianni Ambrosio who keep several old unused testers), I was able to perform a quick test.
EdT samples:
-year 2010 (the first one)
-year 2013
-year 2014
-year 2015 (two samples)
-EdP, year 2014
( to "decode" Chanel batches, read HERE)  

Batch 3402 = October, 2010 

Batch 6202 = February, 2013

Batch 8005 = August, 2014

Batch 8501 = January, 2015


Batch 9001 = June, 2015

....and the EdP sample:
EdP, batch 8301 = November, 2014


TESTS and RESULTS





Comparison on skin:
sample year 2010 (left) VS. year 2015 (right)

Simply said, there is no real difference between EdT samples. All samples -at least until June, 2015- appear identical, in formulas, sillage and longevity. No apparent reformulation occurred in the EdT range, obviously considering all tests performed in the same moment, place and temperature.
The only real difference is in the EdP sample. Sillage and longevity appear to be very similar between EdT and EdP; differences are in formulas. 
Unusually, EdT is sharper and heavier than EdP.
Although similar, EdP is gentle, more levigate, less harsh, with a delicate incense drydown. 
A final consideration. Bleu is the perfect safe scent, because it can't harm anyone. If you want simply to smell fine, you will not go wrong. But if this is the winning point, the losing one is its lack of originality. After such masterpieces as Antaeus, Egoiste, Pour Monsieur, we hoped for another Great One.  
Maybe next time.

other "Yesterday&Today"" articles:
- FRACAS by Robert Piguet: side-by-side comparison
- Fahrenheit: 10 batch review 
- Dior Homme: Yesterday and Today
- Dior Homme Intense: yesterday and today 
- Terre d'Hermes: yesterday and today.
- L'Instant de Guerlain Extreme: yesterday and today
- Habanita de Molinard : yesterday and today
- Azzaro pour Homme: yesterday and today

chanel 8
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Posted in Bleu de Chanel, Chanel, reformulation, vintage | No comments

Thursday, 2 January 2014

DIOR HOMME INTENSE 2007-2013 : 9 BATCHES BlindTest.

Posted on January 02, 2014 by niten



(UPDATE: in this article you will read the "years 2007-2013" review: if you are interested in the "year 2014" updated review, then go HERE )

Dior Homme Intense is not a perfume, it's a rollercoaster ride. After the mid-year 2011 reformulation, we saw a U-turn back to origins, during year 2013. A pleasant news, since in 2013 it appeared exactly as in 2007. That's all right? Unfortunately not.
Suddenly, during last months of 2013, the scent appeared to be reformulated again, with a change in color, less intense, less "ambery", and almost "transparent". Another change in formula?
Let's go and see what happened.
(about batch numbers, you can read here: "how to recognize Christian Dior perfumes")
For this blind test we got nine different batches: in some case samples are bottles already used during previous test  ( here ), plus new bottles, and a 1ml sample, mostly provided by generous friends.

Here is the complete list of "players" (batch number):
7H01
8V01
9Y02
0V01
2N01
2U01 ( it's a 1ml sample)
3V01
3X02
3Y01

dior
A very early bottle produced in 2007 (left, batch 7H01),
confronting a year 2008 bottle.
First bottles missed the word "vaporisateur" on the front side.

dior
Four "Vintage" bottles.
All bottles sport the same "doors design" on the front of the box.

dior
a small sample batched 2U01 = July 2012

        Raiders of the Lost Scent
Confronting old and new design:
9Y02 = November 2009
3V01 = August 2013


Dior Homme vintage
8V01 = August 2008
2N01 = January 2012



dior
Dior Homme Intense (batch 3X02, on left),
confronting with a DH bottle (on right)
note the color, very light and pale


dior
DH (left) batch 3R01, DHI (right) batch 3X02
again, note the color, very light and pale


dior
DHI on left, DH on right


dior
DHI latest bottle available, 3Y01= November 2013


dior

dior
RESULTS: 
Batches from 2007 to 2010 are really identical each other, with a crisp and beautiful vanilla-iris-chocolate accord, along with the best DHI tradition.
Batches 2N01 and 2U01 are different from others: the chocolate seems less solid, so the iris take the advantage. Thes batches appears more Iris-centered. It's a paradox: if you love mainly the Iris note, you should seek year 2012 batches. Rarely I found a strongest Iris note. However, it's still DHI, although reformulated: no doubt. It could be considered almost a DHI "flanker".
Year 2013:  this is the pivotal point. The strangest thing is that.... all three batches smell the same, and all three are pretty similar, if not identical, to the "Vintage" ones. Nonetheless, if you look at the juice of the last two batches (3X02 and 3Y01), it's appear almost "transparent".  Apparently, another reformulation occurred during last months of year 2013, but it seems not to have changed -luckily- the smell. Until now. 


CONCLUSION:
All "year 2013" DHI batches are solid. If you like DHI, buy any year 2013 batch: juice color apart, you will be not disappointed. 
But the question is : how long? It seems Dior is going on a rollercoaster ride, in an attempt to preserve DHI integrity.
I would add a personal anecdote: some time ago, I smelled two old bottles of "Eau Sauvage" by Christian Dior, dated, respectively, mid Seventies and Nineties.Well, smell was identical. During good, old times -after an almost 15 years span- perfumes were still identical. Of course, reformulations occurred in old ages, too; but perfumes remained the same.
Now, we have to test batches every 3-4 months to verify "reformulations". It's pure absurdity.
Two years ago DHI formula changed; today DHI color changes ...and tomorrow?
I'm glad to see Dior to have maintained intact DHI until now, but, I repeat: how long? 
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Posted in batch, DHI, Dior Homme Intense, reformulation, vintage | No comments
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