raidersofthelostscent: reformulations

Probably you have already heard the buzz: J'adore EdP was reformulated again in the autumn of 2016.
I would not want to say if it's for better (or worse), this time I wanted to check it according to the "fragrance formula trick" explained by Alberto Converano some time ago (here the original article) ...and I have to agree with, since I can smell a certain difference, and read a different "formula" at the same time.

Not enough, the packaging changed too, so it's quite easy to identify new and old formulations (at least with the EdP).
This is an useful trick when you suspect a reformulation in your favorite scent. Personally I suggest to check the "formula" written on the box regularly, at least with those brands using it (Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, Lancome...)
(REMEMBER: a change in formula does NOT automatically means there is a change in aroma)

(the "formula" is the number written
on the box at the end of the list)

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J'adore EdP (1999)
- before year 2005: without allergens, with formula "20426A"
- year 2005: formula 00741/A
- year 2008: formula 01905/A
- year 2011: formula 06671/A
- year 2013: formula 08713/A
- year 2016: formula 11057/A

J'adore EdP, year 2002 (without allergens)
formula 20426 A

J'adore EdP, year 2005 (with allergens)
formula 00741/A

J'adore EdP, year 2008, formula 01905/A

J'adore EdP, year 2013, formula 06671/A

J'adore EdP, year 2016, formula 11057/A

old and new box (since 2016)

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J'adore EdT (2002)
- since year 2014: formula 10044/A

J'adore EdT , since 2014: formula 10044/A

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J'adore L'Absolu (2007)
- since year 2012: formula 08716/A

J'adore L'Or Essence de Parfum (2012)
- year 2012: formula 08842/A

J'adore Voile de Parfum (2013)
- year 2013: formula 07354/A

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(before 2008: "Christian Dior" inside a purple oval;

after 2008, "Dior" in a golden oval)

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Dear Sirs, a few years ago, during the 2000s, I had a brief stint in the cosmetic industry as a chemist. Although I am not particularly fond of those years, I am nonetheless entertained in knowing all debates about "reformulations", analyzing batch-by-batch, month-by-month, picture-by-picture.
I especially enjoyed the ones regarding to Dior Homme, Dior Homme Intense, Dior Homme Parfum, and generically, all Dior perfumes and cosmetics. And when Andre from "Raiders" pointed out another probable reformulation occurring at the beginning of 2015, I decided to write this short note. Why? Because there is basically a very quick way to understand if a "reformulation" happened.

Actually, all Dior products silently advice you when a "reformulation" occurred: you simply have to check "the Number" written on the box, i.e. the number appearing on the corner of the box referring to the composition of the scent/cosmetic: when this number changes, it means the scent/cosmetic composition consequently changed: so, you know a reformulation occurred.
Here's a picture describing how to find the Number (Dior Homme Intense)

And here is a box of Dior Homme:

But what is exactly this Number? We need a few steps backwards....
During year 2003, the European Commission issued the 2003/14/EC Directive, about the mandatory labeling of the "allergens" on the box of all European-marketed scents and cosmetics, to be implemented within two years (i.e. year 2005, at latest).
Furthermore, one of the rules involved the "order of appearance" of each allergen, which had to be proportionate to its amount. For example: if you read on the box: "eugenol-linalool-citral", it means eugenol is present in a greater concentration than linalool; and linalool is present at a greater concentration than citral, and so on.

Since 2004-2005, Dior wrote this mandatory list on all perfumes, adding the Number: obviously it is a different number for each type of scent (EdT, EdP, Parfum, Cologne, Aftershave, Soaps, Body creams etc, have a different number, since the "composition" is different)
But when you read a different Number in the same product (for eample, EdT during different years), it means the "composition" inside the bottle changed, and a reformulation occurred. You could see differences in the listing, too.

Beware: a changing in Number/Formula means the composition changed; but this does NOT automatically mean the "smelling" changed, too: actually it could be possible having a change in the formula, leaving the smell unaltered, and vice versa (a bit unlikely, however...)

Back to the original question, Andre was right: at the end of 2014/ beginning of 2015 a reformulation occurred, and the Number changed, and you can smell the subtle difference.

Please note: this method is suitable for any Dior product. You could apply it on Eau Sauvage, Fahrenheit, Poison, J'adore, etc., and any cosmetic produced after 2005.
(Alberto Converano)

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"In my opinion, there was another reformulation at the end of 2014/early in 2015. Dior Homme (DH, EdT) has now a stronger opening, more similar to Dior Homme Intense. On the contrary, Dior Homme Intense (DHI, EdP) seems much more powdery, and the 'lipstick' tone appears more pronounced. Longevity and projection are unaltered. Both still very good in my opinion, but clearly reformulated again." (Andre)

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And now a few pictures with the Numbers /Formulae (use it as a reference):

Dior Homme EdT

original (2005-2010) : formula 01704/A (or 01792/A)

2010-2014 : formula 05434/A

2015- current: formula 08853/A