Cinescent by Gabriela Guidetti : Resina, by Oliver&Co. Perfumes (February 2017)

 

Resina - Oliver & Co.Perfumes (2012) 

VS 

The Secret in Their Eyes (El secreto de sus ojos) - Juan José Campanella (2009)

Irene: Va a ser complicado.
Benjamin: No me importa.
Irene: Cerrá la puerta.
(From The Secret in Their Eyes - El secreto de sus ojos, 2009)

Oliver Valverde is a young Nose, self-taught, and challenge-lover. He was used since childhood to admire, study and process a lot of raw materials (natural and synthetic) with one goal: trying to create new olfactory worlds. In Oliver's vocabulary the word "tradition" simply does not exist, because he is convinced that only a research with no parameters or olfactory pyramids can create something of exceptional and original.
So, this is the concept giving rise to his first production: "Illustrated Series" (2012), consisting of seven fragrances whose only connection is an abstract processing of various ingredients with the ultimate aim of giving them an innovative identity. Intersection of smells and textures that floors and gives life to something amazing, something unexpected.
Similarly to the plot of The Secret in Their Eyes - El secreto de sus ojos,  a masterpiece by Argentine director Juan José Campanella, who won the Oscar for Best Foreign Movie in the following year. Could this movie be defined as a thriller? Or a political  movie? Or maybe romantic? Perhaps a drama about revenge and atonement? Probably The Secret in Their Eyes is all these things.

During the Seventies an agent, helped by a young lady, the new Chancellor of the Public Prosecutor's office, investigates a terrible crime, but the long shadow of political corruption prevents him from delivering the real killer to justice. After twenty years the protagonists found themselves dealing again with the crime and with an ever understood and never exhibited love. In the flow of time, love and hate never disappeared, but went up to the unexpected and devastating ending. Engaging, action-packed and dramatic, the plot unfolds between different perspectives apparently antithetical and unethical. In the end the work of Campanella left a deep and touching tribute to love, that causes and justifies everything. In the words of the great poet Dante Alighieri: Love, that exempts no one beloved from loving. 
The same love that we find in Oliver's creations, a fragrant feeling that joins the scented levels of his complex and unexpected fragrances. Like Resina, in which a wave of golden resins envelops and lightes up the other notes composing the scent. And since the opening of the perfume these deep notes emerge, even if usually they accompany the base, excited by balsamic notes of cold and warm spices. The white jasmine and the essence of the Australian fire tree oil refine the evolution of the fragrance that slowly softens in star anise and tonka beans notes. But the spiral of resins doesn't cease to vibrate. Benzoin, elemi, frankincense, labdanum, myrrh, opoponax and tolu balsam is an underground river that connects all the fragrance from beginning to the end without obeying the rules that would like to put these raw materials in the base of the olfactory pyramid. Yet although Resina, as all the other fragrances created by Oliver, does not have a traditional composition and may sound a blend not fitted into one fragrance family, the result is amazing. As Resina evolves it envelops the skin and promises a comfortable olfactory cohabitation. Soft and warm, aromatic and sweet, the scent turns into an exciting embrace that warms the heart. Like love that after so many years of waiting a woman and a man finally make bloom in the Secret of Their Eyes.

Resina - Oliver & Co Perfumes 2012
Eau de Parfum
Nose: Oliver Valverde
Family: Aromatic
The scent includes notes of benzoin, coffee extract, elemi resin, fir, fire tree, frankincense, fresh, ginger, jasmine sambac, labdanum, myrrh, nutmeg, opoponax, rooibos tincture, star anise, tolu balsam, tonka bean
website : www.oliverandcoperfumes.com/


El secreto de sus ojos - Juan José Campanella 2009
Starring: Ricardo Darin Benjamín Esposito; Soledad Villamil: Irene Menéndez Hastings; Pablo Rago: Ricardo Morales; Javier Godino: Isidoro Gómez
Screenplay by Eduardo Sacheri and Juan Jose Campanella
Oscar winner in 2010 for best foreign film

-----(italian)------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Oliver Valverde è un giovane naso, autodidatta e amante delle sfide, abituato fin da ragazzo ad ammirare, studiare e lavorare le materie prime, naturali e sintetiche, con un unico obiettivo: provare a creare mondi olfattivi nuovi. Nel vocabolario di Oliver manca la parola tradizione, perché egli è convinto che solo della ricerca libera da parametri o piramidi olfattive può nascere qualcosa di eccezionale e originale. 
E da questo concetto nasce nel 2012 la sua prima produzione: Illustrated Series, composto da sette fragranze che hanno come unico elemento comune l'elaborazione astratta di ingredienti diversi con il fine ultimo di dare loro un'inedita identità.
Intreccio di odori e di consistenze che spiazzano e danno vita a qualcosa di stupefacente, qualcosa che non ti aspetti.
Come l'intreccio di Il Segreto dei suoi occhi, capolavoro argentino del 2009, diretto da Juan Josè Campanella che si è portato a casa l'Oscar per il film straniero nell'anno successivo. Si può definire questa pellicola un thriller? O un film politico? O forse un film d'amore? Magari un film drammatico sulla vendetta e l'espiazione? Probabilmente Il Segreto dei suoi occhi è tutto questo.  

Negli anni settanta un agente, aiutato dalla nuova cancelliera della procura, indaga su un terribile delitto, ma l'ombra lunga della corruzione e della politica gli impedisce di consegnare il vero colpevole alla giustizia. Dopo vent'anni i protagonisti di quella vicenda si ritrovano di nuovo a fare i conti con quel delitto e con un amore sempre sottinteso e mai esibito. Nel flusso del tempo che passa i sentimenti di amore e di odio non si affievoliscono, ma si amplificano, fino al sorprendente e straziante epilogo. Avvincente, ricca di azione e drammatica, la trama si dipana tra piani di lettura apparentemente antitetici e antietici. Alla fine quello che resta dell'opera di Campanella è un profondo ed emozionante omaggio all'amore che tutto causa e che tutto giustifica. Con le parole del sommo poeta Amor, ch'a nullo amato amar perdona.
Lo stesso amore che si trova nelle creazioni di Oliver, un sentimento profumato che unisce i piani odorosi delle sue fragranze complesse e inaspettate. Come in Resina, in cui un'onda di resine dorate avvolgono e illuminano le altre note che compongono il profumo. E fin dall'apertura della fragranza questi accordi profondi che normalmente accompagnano le note di fondo di un profumo emergono, eccitati da note balsamiche e da spezie fredde e calde. Il candido gelsomino e l'essenza dell'olio di albero del fuoco australiano ingentiliscono l'evolversi della fragranza che lentamente si addolcisce nelle note di anice stellato e fave tonka. Ma la spirale di resine non cessa di pulsare. Benzoino, elemi, incenso, labdano, mirra, opoponax e balsamo di tolu sono un fiume sotterraneo che lega tutta la fragranza dall'inizio alla fine senza ubbidire alle regole che vorrebbero queste materie profumate fissate nel fondo della piramide olfattiva. Eppure anche se Resina, come tutte le altre fragranze create da Oliver, non ha una scrittura tradizionale e può sembrare un blend apparentemente non incasellabile in una unica famiglia olfattiva, il risultato è sorprendente. Mano a mano che si evolve Resina avvolge la pelle e promette una convivenza olfattiva confortevole. Morbido e caldo, aromatico e soave, il profumo si trasforma in un abbraccio emozionante che riscalda cuore. Come l'amore che dopo tanti anni di attesa una donna e un uomo riusciranno finalmente a far sbocciare nel segreto dei loro occhi.

Resina – Oliver & Co Perfumes 2012
Eau de Parfum
Naso:  Oliver Valverde
Famiglia: Aromatico
Il profumo comprende le note di abete, albero del fuoco, anice stellato, balsamo di tolu, benzoino, estratto CO2 di caffè, fave tonka, incenso, gelsomino sambac, labdano, mirra, noce moscata, opopnax, elemi, tintura di rooibos, zenzero fresco.
sito www.oliverandcoperfumes.com/

El secreto de sus ojos – Juan José Campanella 2009
Cast: Ricardo Darín: Benjamín Esposito; Soledad Villamil: Irene Menéndez Hastings; Pablo Rago: Ricardo Morales; Javier Godino: Isidoro Gómez
Sceneggiatura di Eduardo Sacheri e Juan José Campanella
Premio Oscar 2010 per il miglior film straniero

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"Cinescent" by Gabriela Guidetti (December 2016)

Fundamental – Rubini (2015) 

vs

 Ex_Machina - Alex Garland (2015) 

Caleb: So what? You want me to talk about myself?
Ava: Yes.
Caleb: Where... Okay, where do I start?
Ava: It's your decision. I'm interested to see what you'll choose.
(tratto da Ex Machina, 2015)

Nel 2015 sono sbocciate due magnifiche creature che per caso o fortuna sembrano legate dallo stesso inarrestabile destino. Fundamental, la prima fragranza della maison Rubini, e Ava, la protagonista del primo film diretto da Alex Garland, lo sceneggiatore preferito da Danny Boyle.
Ed entrambe hanno fatto parlare di sé.

Ava è intelligenza artificiale racchiusa in un corpo dalle forme femminili dove la trasparenza luminosa si fonde alla pelle sintetica. Il suo creatore, Nathan, un ricchissimo ex enfant prodige dell'informatica, invita il suo giovane collaboratore Caleb nella sua casa/laboratorio con l'incarico di  sottoporre Ava al test di Turing per verificare se la I.A. ha coscienza di sé. In un crescendo di tensione nei rapporti tra i tre Ava si trasforma nell'inesplicabile e destabilizzante Deux ex machina che interviene nella storia per cambiare per sempre il corso degli eventi. Raffinatissimo e algido thriller dalle sfumature sci-fi, Ex-Machina è una produzione indipendente che si è portato a casa un Oscar per gli effetti speciali e una nomination per la sceneggiatura di Alex Garland più una lista infinita di premi e candidature in giro per il mondo, grazie anche a uno straordinario cast di attori non più solo promettenti come Oscar Isaac, Domhnall Gleeson e Alicia Vikander, fresca di Oscar per The Danish Girl. Una delle sorprese della stagione 2015, Ex Machina è il film che non ti aspetti.

Come Fundamental di Rubini.
Marchio giovanissimo, ma con una lunga tradizione alle spalle nell'ambito della profumeria commerciale, Rubini nel 2015 esordisce con il suo primo profumo, Fundamental, fragranza voluta, pensata, realizzata e rivestita da giovani creatori italiani non più solo promettenti come Andrea Bissoli Rubini, Ermano Picco, Cristiano Canali e Francesca Gotti. Fundamental è un omaggio alle tradizioni e, soprattutto, alle fondamenta profumate della famiglia Rubini inserite in una capsula del tempo e proiettate nel futuro lontano. L'anima di Fundamental ha la luminosità di agrumi rinfrescanti che si sciolgono nel cuore aromatico e talcato per fondersi nella raffinatezza calda e vellutata dei legni e del cuoio. Memorie di altri tempi, di polvere, belletti e palcoscenici, di luci dorate e lunghi sospiri che si riflettono nell'involucro di candida glebanite, materiale innovativo, riciclato ed eco-sostenibile che protegge il cuore trasparente e prezioso del profumo. E simile a specchio semiriflettente, la glebanite se per un verso accoglie queste fondamenta avite, dall'altro le riflette verso una dimensione imprevedibile, quasi avveniristica.

Come il guscio hi-tech che protegge l'anima di Ava. Sotto la sua pelle trasparente fluidi luminosi pulsano e riproducono il battito cardiaco di un'entità che sta germogliando. Lo sguardo di Ava solletica e intriga, ammalia e inganna, specchio di una vita/non vita imbevuta dell'energia luminosa della creazione. L'apertura di Fundamental sancisce questa genesi con frizzanti accordi di note esperidate. Mano a mano che il racconto procede, Ava prende sempre più consapevolezza della sua esistenza. Ma forse nei meandri della sua coscienza Ava ne era stata sempre conscia. L'incontro con un umano diverso dal suo creatore fa emergere e concretizza la sua aspirazione di libertà. Note succose cavalcano le correnti di aria balsamica che danzano nella natura incontaminata intorno alla casa bunker mentre il cuore di Fundamental si scalda delle profonde e sensuali sfumature del polveroso iris fiorentino. Ormai Ava non ha più ostacoli sul suo cammino. Non è più solo intelligenza artificiale astratta, ma un individuo di sesso femminile. Il guscio trasparente lascia il posto alla morbidezza della pelle sintetica simile all'epidermide umana, di cui Ava si riveste con cura. Mentre Ava chiude la porta alle sue spalle e attraversa la natura lussureggiante che circonda il luogo che ha visto la sua nascita, Fundamental accoglie le note di cuore in un fondo di legni aromatici scaldati dal cuoio. La scia intensa e sensuale della fragranza avvolge l'anima di Ava come un secondo involucro che non ha più nulla di tecnologico, ma che ne esalta il suo stato di creatura viva, reale, pronta ad affrontare il mondo nuovo.
Elegantissimo e persistente, Fundamental è una produzione profumiera indipendente di nicchia che  ha ottenuto un immediato successo di critica e pubblico. Una delle sorprese della stagione 2015, la creazione di Rubini è la fragranza che non ti aspetti.
Come Ex Machina di Alex Garland …..

Fundamental - Rubini 2015
Eau de Parfum
Naso:  Cristiano Canali in collaborazione con Ermano Picco
Packaging disegnato da Francesca Gotti
Famiglia: Legnoso aromatico
Piramide Olfattiva:
Note di testa: Bergamotto di Calabria, mandarino, sensuali fiori di esperidi.
Note di cuore:Uva Soave, sentori di macchia, iris fiorentina, cera d’api
Note di fondo: Legno di cedro dell’Atlas, sandalo indiano, vetiver Java, accordo velluto, cuoio
sito http://www.rubiniprofumi.com/

Ex Machina – Alex Garland 2015
Cast: Domhnall Gleeson: Caleb Smith; Alicia Vikander: Ava; Oscar Isaac: Nathan Bateman
Sceneggiatura originale di Alex Garland
Effetti speciali:Andrew Whitehurst, Paul Norris, Mark Ardington, Sara Bennett

------------------------(english)------------------------

Fundamental – Rubini 2015

 vs

 Ex_Machina - Alex Garland 2015 

Caleb: So what? You want me to talk about myself?
Ava: Yes.
Caleb: Where... Okay, where do I start?
Ava: It's your decision. I'm interested to see what you'll choose. 
(from Ex Machina, 2015)

In 2015 two magnificent creatures have blossomed and accidentally (or incidentally) they seem linked by the same unstoppable fate: Fundamental, the first fragrance of brand Rubini, and Ava, the protagonist of the first film directed by Alex Garland, Danny Boyle's preferred writer.
And both made a name for themselves.
Ava is an artificial intelligence enclosed in a female form body where the luminous transparency blends with synthetic leather. Its creator, Nathan, a rich ex-enfant prodige computer genius, invites his young collaborator Caleb in his house/lab with the task of running Turing test on Ava to verify if her I.A. has a self-consciousness. In an escalation of tension in the relationships between the three protagonists, Ava turns in the inexplicable and destabilizing Deux ex machina who intervenes in the story to change forever the course of events. Refined and cold thriller with sci-fi shades, Ex-Machina is an independent production that took home an Oscar prize for special effects and a nomination for the screenplay by Alex Garland, as well as an endless list of awards and nominations around the world, also thanks to an extraordinary cast of actors not only promising as Oscar Isaac, Domhnall Gleeson and Alicia Vikander, who just won the Oscar prize for The Danish Girl. One of the surprises of the season 2015, Ex Machina is the movie you do not expect.

As Fundamental by Rubini.
A new, young brand, but with a long tradition in commercial perfumery, Rubini debuted in 2015 with its first fragrance, Fundamental; a fragrance wanted, designed, realized and upholstered by young Italian creators like Andrea Bissoli Rubini, Ermano Picco, Cristiano Canali and Francesca Gotti. Fundamental is a tribute to the traditions and, above all, to the fragrant foundations of the Rubini family, inserted in a time capsule and launched into the distant future. The soul of Fundamental has the brightness of refreshing citrus that melt in the aromatic and powdered heart to blend in the warm and velvety refinement of woods and leather. Memories of the past, dust, cosmetics and stages, memories of golden lights and long sighs that are reflected in the shell made by white glebanite, an innovative, recycled and eco-sustainable material, protecting the transparent and precious heart of the perfume. And similar to a semi-reflecting mirror, while on the one hand glebanite supports these ancestral foundations, on the other it reflects them toward an unpredictable dimension, almost futuristic.

As the hi-tech shell that protects the soul of Ava. Under her transparent skin light fluids pulsate and reproduce the heartbeat of a sprouting entity. The look of Ava tickles and intrigues, fascinates and deceives, as mirror of a life / non-life soaked of the light energy of the creation. 
The opening of Fundamental marks this genesis with sparkling accords of citrus notes. As the story unfolds, Ava takes more and more aware of its/her existence. But maybe deep down inside Ava realized this. The encounter with a human different by its/her creator brings out and actualise its/her aspiration to freedom. Juicy notes ride the currents of balmy air dancing in the unspoilt nature around the bunker house while the heart of Fundamental warms with the deep and sensual shades of dusty Florentine iris. Ava has now no more obstacles in the path. No longer just abstract artificial intelligence, but a female individual. The transparent shell gives way to the softness of synthetic flesh like human skin, which Ava carefully clothes herself with. While Ava closes the door behind her and runs through the lush nature surrounding the place that saw her birth, Fundamental embraces the heart notes in a base of aromatic woods warmed by leather. The intense and sensual sillage of the fragrance envelops the soul of Ava as a no more technological second case, enhancing her status of living creature, real, ready to face  a new world.
Elegant and persistent, Fundamental is an independent perfumer niche production that got an critical and commercial success. One of the surprises of the season in 2015, the creation of Rubini is the fragrance that you do not expect.
As Ex Machina by Alex Garland ... ..

Fundamental - Rubini 2015
Eau de Parfum
Nose: Cristiano Canali in collaboration with Ermano Picco
Packaging designed by Francesca Gotti
Family: Woody Aromatic
Olfactory Pyramid:
Top notes: Calabrian bergamot, mandarin, sensual citrus flowers.
Heart notes: Grape Soave, scrubland scents, Florentine iris, beeswax
Base notes: Atlas Cedar wood, Indian sandalwood, vetiver Java, velvet accord, Leather
site http://www.rubiniprofumi.com/

Ex Machina - Alex Garland 2015
Cast: Domhnall Gleeson: Caleb Smith; Alicia Vikander: Ava; Oscar Isaac Nathan Bateman
Screenplay by Alex Garland
Special Effects: Andrew Whitehurst, Paul Norris, Mark Ardington, Sara Bennett

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J'Adore by Dior (EdP reformulation, 2016).

Probably you have already heard the buzz: J'adore EdP was reformulated again in the autumn of 2016.
I would not want to say if it's for better (or worse), this time I wanted to check it according to the "fragrance formula trick" explained by Alberto Converano some time ago (here the original article) ...and I have to agree with, since I can smell a certain difference, and read a different "formula" at the same time.

Not enough, the packaging changed too, so it's quite easy to identify new and old formulations (at least with the EdP).
This is an useful trick when you suspect a reformulation in your favorite scent. Personally I suggest to check the "formula" written on the box regularly, at least with those brands using it (Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, Lancome...)
(REMEMBER: a change in formula does NOT automatically means there is a change in aroma)

(the "formula" is the number written
on the box at the end of the list)

-----------------------------------

J'adore EdP (1999)
- before year 2005: without allergens, with formula "20426A"
- year 2005: formula 00741/A
- year 2008: formula 01905/A
- year 2011: formula 06671/A
- year 2013: formula 08713/A
- year 2016: formula 11057/A

J'adore EdP, year 2002 (without allergens)
formula 20426 A

J'adore EdP, year 2005 (with allergens)
formula 00741/A

J'adore EdP, year 2008, formula 01905/A

J'adore EdP, year 2013, formula 06671/A

J'adore EdP, year 2016, formula 11057/A

old and new box (since 2016)

---------------------------

J'adore EdT (2002)
 - since year 2014: formula 10044/A

J'adore EdT , since 2014: formula 10044/A

---------------------

J'adore L'Absolu (2007)
- since year 2012: formula 08716/A

J'adore L'Or Essence de Parfum (2012)
- year 2012: formula 08842/A

J'adore Voile de Parfum (2013)
- year 2013: formula 07354/A

---------------------------------

     

(before 2008: "Christian Dior" inside a purple oval;

after 2008, "Dior" in a golden oval)

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SAMSARA, the Legend.

Hello!
This is my first solo post at "Raiders of the Lost Scent" and the first chapter of a small bunch of fragrances that changed my life. 
I'd like to start with one of my favourite scents since I was a teen: "Samsara" by Guerlain, one of the most spectacular exhibitions of Jasmine and Sandalwood ever created: in my opinion, it's a scent near perfection, and it was an instant love.
I don't want to write a book about Samsara, since you can find huge amount of infos on the net, so this will be a sort of "pictorial review" through the years.
There are five chapters:
- 1 - Time-sheet (a sort of "order of appearance");
- 2 - "Reformulations"; 
- 3 - How to identify boxes and bottles;
- 4 - Year-by-year pictures;
- 5 - The Samsara Universe (with gift-sets and adverts)

Samsara was created immediately after "Derby", between 1985 and 1988, and launched during the autumn of 1989. It was a "boom or bust" move after the commercial failure of Nahema in 1979 and Jardins de Bagatelle in 1983 (interestingly, Nahema is considered one of the greatest Guerlain perfumes...).
Guerlain needed badly a great success, and spared no expense to achieve it: almost three years and 300 attempts for a perfect "tuning", using the best materials available, highest-grade sandalwood oils from selected woods in India, the finest jasmine and ...nearly 50 millions $ in advertising. 

At the end of 1988 everything was ready, and finally the new scent, named "Samsara" after long debates, was launched in the autumn of the following year (1989). Originally launched as a "Perfume" and "Eau de Parfum"; it was followed in 1991 by fresher, lighter "Eau de Toilette" for marketing purposes........ and the rest is history.

Chapter1:

TIME-SHEET

Autumn 1989, and during 1990:  

- "Parfum" 

7.5ml (0.25oz), 15ml (0.5oz), and 30ml (1oz) splash bottles (red glass bottles)  

7.5ml "purse spray" refillable bottle (red plastic case),

"Les Meteorites" bottle, 7.5 and 15 ml. (refillable Parfum)

plus: "miniatures", 2ml and 5ml.

- "Eau de Parfum" (transparent glass bottle WITH a golden ring)

75ml (2.5oz) splash bottle, 

30/50/100ml (1oz, 1.7oz, 3.3oz) spray bottles, 

50/100ml squared "refillable" bottle ("Copyright1982" golden canister),

"les Meteorites" bottle (refillable Eau de Parfum),

plus: "miniature", 7.5 ml.

("Eau de Toilette" not launched until 1991)

The EdP box, and the bottle with the golden ring 

------------------------------------------------------------------

Year 1991: 

- Launch of "Eau de Toilette":

30/50/100ml, splash and spray, transparent glass bottles WITHOUT golden ring on the bottle, 

93ml. cylindrical refillable EdT spray bottle ("Copyright 1982" golden canister). 

plus: EdP and EdT refillable red plastic bottle, 100ml.

The EdT box , with the bottle without the golden ring

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Year 1995

"Un Air de Samsara", EdT (flanker, discontinued)

---------------------------------------------------------------------

Year 1999: NEW PACKAGING
- Complete repackaging; new EdT and EdP in red-glass bottles, with fixed, rotating caps.
-"Parfum" bottles similar to previous ones.  
- Crystal-transparent EdT and EdP bottles discontinued. 
- Splash bottles discontinued.
- New golden canisters ("Copyright 1996") for refillable bottles.
- New box and a red "cover". 
- Miniatures: red bottles, 5ml.

Box on right, with "cover" on left

------------------------------------------------------

Year 2000:
- EdT and EdP (limited editions) with golden "maps" painted on the bottle. 

------------------------------------------------

Year 2001:
- Launch of Samsara "Shine" EdT (flanker, discontinued)

-----------------------------------------------

Year 2004: NEW BOXES
- New red boxes (without covers) with the new Guerlain "double G" golden logo.

-----------------------------------------------------------------

Year 2007: NEW BOXES
- New red boxes with current Guerlain logo. 

------------------------------

Chapter 2:

REFORMULATIONS

-------------------------------

This is an highly debated issue! There are a lot of discussions about Samsara "reformulations"..... 

Many, many years ago Roja Dove (former Guerlain Ambassador) stated in an interview a very interesting fact: Samsara contained a very high quality sandalwood oil, obtained from 40-50 years-old trees, mixed with a certain amount of different synthetic sandalwoods in order to minimize differences from year to year and even batch-to-batch (actually, since there aren't two identical harvests, perfumes with an high amount of natural substances -such as "Samsara"- had to be reformulated continuously). 

So, when we speak about reformulations we should keep in mind that -from a strict point of view- all Samsara batches are different each other. 

The true Art of Perfumery is to minimize differences, or , in other words, "...reformulating, and smelling exactly the same."

Samsara was created as a "Parfum" and "Eau de Parfum", but during 1991, as previously said, it was launched also as an "Eau de Toilette". This because a few perfumes, launched as EdTs during previous months, achieved an huge commercial success. So, Guerlain launched a "Samsara EdT" (a lighter, fresher version) to jump on the bandwagon.... but misrepresenting the original idea. 

Since Samsara is an heavy, bold scent, perfect for the winter days "a lighter, fresher version" is a sort of degeneration. You can spot almost immediately the differences between EdP and EdT.  

EdP is creamier, thicker; EdT is greener and softer.

In my opinion, real "Samsara" is "Parfum" and "Eau de Parfum" only. The EdT could be considered a pleasant "flanker" inspired by original. 

Hence, any reformulation question should be limited to Parfum and EdP.

Well, I tested side-by-side all my Parfum and EdP bottles between 1990 and 1997, and this is the honest answer: there was no apparent reformulation during these years (1990-1997).

And, yes! I perfectly know after year 1994 many Guerlain scents changed due to new "artistic supervision" by LVMH... but Samsara performs in a sublime way (at least until 1997).

Let me be completely honest: I can detect clear differences during following years, because Samsara appears to be "sanitized", less creamy, less rich, and with a different drydown. So, if you want the real Samsara vibe, a real blast in the cold days, I strongly suggest you to search the bottles produced during the Nineties (i.e the "First Serie").

And, since I have been asked so many times: what's the difference between Parfum and Eau de Parfum?, here's the answer: 

-Parfum is darker, smokier, with more emphasis on drydown. Sandalwood is really huge here.

-Eau de Parfum is more focused on a bright opening, with an explosion of Jasmine, but with a drydown less pronounced.

If you prefer sandalwood, then go for Parfum; if you prefer Jasmine, then go for EdP. 

In both cases the effects and sensations of Samsara blooming on your skin, during cold, winter days ...is really indescribable.

--------------------------------------

Chapter 3

How to identify

BOXES and BOTTLES

---------------------------------------

-----------------------------
First Serie (1989-1999)
Transparent, clear bottles  - the concentration (Parfume, EdT or EdP) is 
written ABOVE the word "Samsara" on the box
-----------------------------

Eau de Parfum, transparent glass bottle
with a golden ring 

Eau de Toilette (since 1991) in a transparent glass bottle,
WITHOUT the golden ring

....and check for the copyright: "year 1988" 

-----------------------------------
Examples from 
First Serie (1989-1999)

Parfum, 30ml
----------------------------------------- 

 

Parfum, 7.5 ml refillable

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Eau de Parfum, 50ml, refillable, 
with squared golden canister "Copyright 1982"
------------------------------------------------

 

Eau de Parfum,  refillable 100ml red plastic bottle

----------------------------------------------------

Eau de Parfum, 30 and 50 ml spray bottles

----------------------------------------------------

Eau de Toilette, 93ml refill 

with cylindrical golden canister "Copyright 1982"

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Eau de Toilette, 50ml/100ml spray

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Eau de Toilette 100ml splash (left), 
30 ml spray with RED cap (right)
-----------------------------------

 

DIFFERENCES in descriptions between

 Eau de Parfum (left) and Eau de Toilette (right) testers

---------------------------------

Parfum, 2ml, miniature in cardboard box

EdP, miniature 7.5 ml, in large box (left) and smaller box (right)

EdP 2ml. miniature

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Second Serie (1999-2004)
Red bottles - the concentration (EDT or EdP) is 
written BELOW the word "Samsara" on the box
----------------------------------

During 1999-2004 : red covers (left) 
put over the box (right)

...and check for the "copyright" : year 1999.

----------------------------------------------------------

Examples from 2nd serie (1999-2004):

Parfum with its cover

---------------------------------------------------

Typical Second Serie (1999-2004) 

Samsara bottle with new box and "cover".

---------------------------------------------------

Eau de Toilette, 30ml (left), 50 ml (right), with "covers".

---------------------------

EdP 100ml (left), EdT 50ml (right), without covers.

-------------------------------------------------

 

Eau de Toilette 5 ml, miniature

--------------------------------

50ml EdP Refillable

------------------------------

Third Serie (2004-2007)
box with the "double G" golden logo on the 
upper front (and no "covers")
-----------------------------

 

 

-----------------------------------

Fourth Serie (since 2007)
Plain boxes with modern Guerlain logo
------------------------------

 

  

--------------------------------

Chapter 4

Year-by-Year
for a complete Batch-numbers guide see: 
How to recognize Guerlain Perfumes
--------------------------------

1989

(6-digits batch, starting with D)

Parfum, 30ml, batch "DL"

Parfum, 7.5ml refillable without its plastic case
(batch "DE")

Eau de Parfum, 75ml / 2.5oz Splash

-----------------------

1990
(6-digits batch code, starting with M)

Eau de Parfum, 100ml refillable spray, batch "MC"

Eau de Parfum, 7.5 ml miniature, batch "MB"

Eau de Parfum, 75 ml splash, batch "MR"

EdP 50ml spray, 6-digits batch "MH" = year 1990

Edp, 30ml spray, batch ML

------------------------
1991

(6-digits batch code starting with U)

EdP 100ml refillable, batch "UA"

EdP, 50 ml spray, batch "UK"

Parfum, 30 ml, batch "UH"

Eau de Toilette, 100ml spray, batch "UB"

EdP, 7.5ml miniature

EdP, 50ml spray, batch "UR"

-------------------
1992
(6-digits batch, starting with Z)

Eau de Parfum, 50ml spray, batch "ZC" 

Eau de Parfum, 50ml spray, batch "ZE"

-----------------------

1993

(6-digits batch, starting with J)

  

Eau de Parfum, 30ml spray, batch "JT"

Eau de Toilette, 50ml spray, batch "JX"

EdP, 7.5ml miniature, batch "JK"

-------------------

1994

(6-digits batch, starting with Y)

Parfum, 7.5ml, batch "YF"

"Le Meteorites", 7.5ml Parfum Spray Refillable, batch "YF"  

93ml  EdT Refillable, batch YH

------------------
1995

(5 or 6 digits batch codes, starting with W)

Launch of "Un Air de Samsara", EdT.

"Un Air de Samsara", 50 ml, spray

Eau de Parfum, 30ml spray, 6-digits batch "WH"

------------
1996

(5-digits batch, starting with P)

Eau de Toilette, 30ml spray, 5-digits batch "PC"

Eau de Toilette, 50 ml spray, batch "PB"

93 ml refillable EdT, batch "PB"

Eau de Toilette, 7.5ml miniature, batch "PL"

---------------------------
1997

(5-digits batch, starting with S)

Eau de Toilette, 50ml spray, batch "SC"

------------------------------------------------

1998

(5-digits batch, starting with V)

Eau de Toilette, 100ml spray, TESTER  

-------------------------------

1999 : NEW PACKAGING
red bottles, fixed caps, box with "cover"
EdP: golden cap - EdT: red cap
(5-digits batch codes starting with D)

NEW EdP: red bottle, golden cap, box and "cover"

NEW EdT : red bottle, red cap, box and cover

Notice "Copyight Guerlain 1999" on the box

Eau de Toilette, 93ml, refillable, batch DL

Eau de Parfum, 30ml spray, batch "DN"

EdP, 50 ml spray, batch DK2ME (on the cover) 

----------------------
2000

(5-digits batch starting with "M")

Eau de Toilette, 50 ml spray, batch "MC"

Eau de Toilette, 93 ml refillable, batch MK

Parfum, 15ml, batch "ME"

---------------------------

2001
(5-digits batch, starting with U)

Eau de Toilette, 100 ml

Samsara Shine, EdT, 30ml

-------------------------------
since 2002
(4-digits batch codes, first number is the year)

Eau de toilette, 50ml, batch 2H03 = year 2002

EdP, 50ml, batch 6F01 = year 2006

-------------------------------------------------------------
Recent bottles, since 2007

Year 2007, batch 7G01,  new  cubic "Parfum" bottle

30 ml, year 2008

100ml, EdP, Year 2010

100ml, EdT, year 2010 

100 ml, EdP, year 2013

30ml, EdP, year 2013

---------------------------------

Chapter 5

The Samsara Universe

---------------------------------

Very rare Parfum Spray 30ml (tester)

-----------------------------------------------

 

15ml x4 EdT Purse Spray, in plastic case, year 2002

--------------------------------------------

Samsara "Les Meteorites", Parfum Spray Refillable

"Les Meteorites", Eau de Parfum Spray Refillable

"Les Meteorites", Eau de Parfum Spray Refillable

-----------------------

100g. Talc

-------------------------------------------

"Duet of Luxury" limited edition
(Samsara EdP plus Shalimar PdT, both 7.5ml)

--------------------------------------

 

2ml sample vial

--------------------------------------------------

Body Creme

------------------------------------------------------------------

Perfumed Deodorant

------------------------------------------------------

Factices

----------------------------------------------

Soaps (3x box)

-------------------------------------------------------------------

Soap (single)

-------------------------------------------------

1ml. EdT sample vial in plastic case

-------------------------------------

1 ml EdP sample vial in plastic case 

---------------------------------------------------

2 ml Parfum + minibook, year 1991

--------------------------------------

Eau de Parfum, limited edition, year 2000 
(in this picture with its cover)

------------------------------------

Eau de toilette, limited edition, year 2000 
(in this picture with box but without its cover)

----------------------------------------

5ml mini, year 2000

----------------------------------

Samsara Shine Purse Spray, year 2001

------------------------------------------

Pin

----------------------------------------------------------------------------

     

Samsara Limited Edition set:
30ml EdT, 15ml EdP, 7.5ml Parfum, 2ml Parfum

-------------------------------------

Samsara package

------------------------------------------

Bath Crystals

------------------------------------------

 

Bath oil (left) and Body Lotion (right)

---------------------------------------------------------

Samsara Sensual Spirit, roll-on eau de toilette, year 2001

-----------------------------------------------

Samsara Refreshing Perfume Dew, year 2001

---------------------------------------
Gift Sets/Coffrets
----------------------------------------

Mother's day, 1990

------------------------------------------------------


"The Samsara Book" + 2ml Parfum, Christmas 1991

-------------------------------

Coffret from Nineties

---------------------------------------------------------

Coffret from Nineties

--------------------------------------------------------

Coffret from Nineties

------------------------------------------------------

Coffret from Nineties

------------------------------------------------------------

Coffret from Nineties

---------------------------------

 

Christmas 1993: two mini-coffrets with miniatures

---------------------------------------------------

Coffret year 1994

-------------------------------------------------------

Coffret year 1995

---------------------------------------------------------------

 

Christmas 1995 : "Reve pour l'Hiver" 

(Un Air de Samsara)

----------------------------------------------------

 

Coffret from 2000s

------------------------------------------------------------

 

Samsara 4x 15ml Purse Spray, year 2002

-----------------------------------------------------------------

Coffret from 2000s

---------------------------------------------------------------------

Coffret from 2000s

-----------------------------------------------------------

Coffret from 2000s

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Coffret from 2000s

-----------------------------------------------------------

Coffret from 2000s

-----------------------------------------------

Coffret from 2000s

--------------------------------------------------------

Coffret from 2000s

-----------------------------------------------

Coffret from 2000s

--------------------------------------------------------

Christmas 2006

-------------------------------------------

Christmas 2009

---------------------------------
Advertising
---------------------------------

----------------------------------------
"Colophon"



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