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Showing posts with label Reviews. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Reviews. Show all posts

Monday, 22 June 2015

GUEST REVIEW: "Capucci pour Homme", by T.Grottola.

Posted on June 22, 2015 by niten


Tony Grottola is a well-known name in reviewing perfumes, and this time he will illustrate one of his personal favourites: 
CAPUCCI POUR HOMME (1967)   


------------------------------
"Capucci pour Homme? This is the men's fragrance I've been looking for all along!
If you've read my reviews before and looked at my collection, you should probably be able to gather that I'm a fan of chypres, especially citrus chypres. I used to really like Eau Sauvage, but over time it's been reformulated and the citrus was flattened a lot. 



The original Eau Sauvage lives on in Capucci Pour Homme, but with a pleasant surprise - a Jo Malone-esque lime and basil accord in the top that lasts through the drydown. It blends flawlessly with the fruity-chypre heart and peppery neroli accord; not just that, but I can smell some hefty oakmoss in the base, and, like all good chypres, it resonates a "warmth" from my skin, a type of warmth that I can only smell in a well-made chypre. 



Capucci Pour Homme is a great everyday fragrance, especially for someone like me - it's intellectual, but caring and loving; it's intelligent but not a smart ass, and it's classy without being pretentious. It lasts for at least six hours on the back of my hand, and over seven on my wrists and arms. If you're a fan of classic men's fragrances, chypres, citrus fragrances, citrus chypres, or all of the above, then you need to try Capucci Pour Homme before there's no more left. It really is a hidden gem. 



Capucci Pour Homme also has powderiness in it, which brings it sort of close to Chanel Pour Monsieur, or, Chanel for Men in the vintage formulation. Also something peculiar is a noticeable lavender note, and when you think lavender, you probably think of a fougere. 



Yet, Capucci Pour Homme smells like, and is more structurally like a chypre. So how about that? It's sort of a chypre-fougere hybrid, a rare occurrence in perfumery. When the weather gets too warm for Patou Pour Homme, I'll break out the Capucci Pour Homme and bask in its glory."



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Who is Tony Grottola?

Tony Grottola is a young fragrance fanatic who has had a passion for, and fascination with perfumery and all things related since he was eleven years old. He has written numerous reviews on various websites on the Internet for fragrances, and has also made fragrance-related videos on YouTube.
While recent changes in life have caused Tony to fall a bit out of touch with the fragrance world, he still maintains it as his favorite passion, and currently (2015) is a fragrance salesman at Macy's, as well.


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"Capucci pour Homme" (year 1967)
Timeline


1960s and 1970s (early bottles)

---------------------
1970s and early 1980s (different box, same bottle)

----------------------
1980s (different fonts on the bottle)

--------------------------
1989-1998 (different box and bottle)

-----------------
SINCE 1998 (different box)
1998-2014 (produced by "Weruska&Joel")
2015-ongoing (produced by "Extraordinary Fragrances")


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Posted in Capucci, Reviews, vintage perfumes | No comments

Thursday, 10 July 2014

Dior Homme Intense UPDATE 2014.

Posted on July 10, 2014 by niten


(please note: this is a review of  "year 2014" batches only.
If you want know what happened during years 2007-2013, read HERE ) 

Since so many friends asked me to investigate about Dior Homme Intense "Year 2014" batches, I had quick calls with a professionally-involved friend. He collected DHI "year-2014- labelled" bottles (actually, a few testers). Then we met inside his perfume shop, and I performed the blind test in the back room, away from the main hall (the classic perfume shop is one of the worst places where to perform tests, indeed).


We had: 
-the reference DHI bottle (the first one produced, year 2007) 
-one bottle dated "2013" ( October )
-three bottles dated "2014" ( January, February, March )
At the end, I brought back home all paper stripes inside plastic envelopes, for longevity tests.

Here are the samples:

The "Golden Standard" (reference bottle)
batch 7H01 = year 2007
(without the word "Vaporisateur/Spray" on the front)


Batch 3X01 = 2013, October.

Batch 4N01 = 2014, January

Batch 4P02 = 2014, February

Batch 4Q01 = 2014, March.


5-samples blind test


Results: good news for you. All "year 2014" batches (January, February and March) appear to be identical to the "year 2013".
I noticed only a slight difference with the "Golden Standard" (year 2007). Probably the "year 2007" bottle is the best one ever, but differences are minimal, in my opinion.
Longevity is very high -as usual- on paper (many, many hours), and I could say "enormous" on clothes (it lasts several days, I sprayed it on a cotton t-shirt, too....)
Sillage/projection is very high. You can smell DHI even 2 meters (six or seven feet) far away. 
In my opinion DHI remains a very solid scent in 2014.
Iris, vanilla, and cocoa are intense -and persistent- in all batches considered. 
There are no traces of the famous/infamous "year 2011-2012 reformulation" that wiped off all cocoa notes.

Conclusion: if you are a Dior Homme Intense "vintage" fan, you can buy any year 2014 batch without any problem. You will not disappointed.

(Disclaimer  I am not involved with Christian Dior perfumes house in any way, and I have no personal interests or affairs in evaluting perfumes)

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Posted in Christian Dior, Reviews, Tests | No comments

Monday, 28 April 2014

AMAZONE (Hermes, 1974): 40-years Tribute.

Posted on April 28, 2014 by niten




"Amazone", by Hermès
year 1974 (reportedly reformulated in 1989)
Noses: Maurice Maurin (1974 version); Jean Claude Ellena (1989)

Official olfactive pyramid:
Top Notes: Bergamot, Geranium, Hyacinth, BlackCurrant.
Middle: Muguet, Orris. Rose, Jasmin
Base : Cedarwood, Oakmoss, Vetiver, Amber.
(please note: you will find several other "olfactive pyramids" with different compositions)

Longevity: high (both versions)
Sillage: very high (both versions)
Vote: 10/10 (both versions '1974' and '1989')


I would want to offer a pictorial tribute for the "40-years Anniversary" of this marvelous scent (1974-2014), remembering first its creator Maurice Maurin, who passed away just a few months ago. Here you can read the hommage dedicated to him. 
He was creator of "Amazone" by Hermès, "Acteur" by Azzaro, and others; and author of renowned book "La Sagesse du Créateur de Parfum" ("The Wisdom of a Perfume creator")

Maurice Maurin (1936-2013)
If you want to read some "Amazone" reviews, others wrote excellent ones, for example on "Yesterday's Perfume", "The Non-Blonde", " 1000scents" and others. Simply go and Google it.
Since a few days ago I posted a gas-chromatography analysis about vintage Amazone EdT,  describing how many precious ingredients it contains, this time I'll just show some pictures.
Here's to you, hence, my personal 100-pictures Tribute to a great perfume. A Tribute to "Amazone". 
Enjoy! 








































































































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How to recognize vintage AMAZONE
at a glance
SINCE 1979: EMB code on the box
BEFORE 1979: without EMB code on the box
(in this picture a bottle batched "year 1982")

AFTER 1983-1984
 the "circled nr. 90" disappear (lower box),
it's the alcohol vol.



(from Ebay) pure parfum spray.

(from Ebay) Amazone "aerospray" bottle

(from Ebay) Amazone "brown and blue" box edition, 
(2nd half Eighties)

Amazone second serie, since 1990 (reformulated version)

Amazone third serie, after year 2002.

from Ebay, recheargeable EDT

from Ebay , recheargeable Amazione Parfum



(from Ebay), year 1974 advertisement

(from Ebay) year 1975 advertisement

(from Ebay) year 1976 advertisement

(from Ebay), year 1977

From Ebay, year 1978 advertisement

(from Ebay) year 1980 advertisement

(from Ebay) Christmas 1980 advertisement



(from Ebay) Year 1981 advetisement
(from Ebay), year 1982

(from Ebay), year 1983

(from Eaby) Amazone, year 1991 adevertisement

(from Ebay) year 1994: Amazone Fraicheur

(from Ebay) year 1998
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Posted in Hermes, Reviews | No comments
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