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Thursday, 21 November 2013

The Art of (Vintage) Layering

Posted on November 21, 2013 by niten




" Layering " is the action of "putting layers" (or stratifying) on top of something else.
In perfumery we speak about "layering" when we want to achieve new effects or even "create" new perfumes, simply applying a perfume, and then another just over the previous different scent.
You can "layer perfumes" by adding some sweet to harsh, dry scents, resulting with (theoretically) infinite combinations.
But "Layering" is an amazing resource for another reason, namely to "simulate" , with excellent results, vintage perfumes. How it works? It 's quite easy .

You need the Vintage aftershave, and the Modern  EdT.
Initially apply aftershave, leaving it dry; and immediately after apply the modern EdT on the same place (neck, hand, wrist, shirt...)  Magically the Vintage perfume will appear to dominate the scene , with a really nice effect .
What happened? in practice, a it's synergistic effect.
Suppose that the Vintage EdT (which we do not possess) has a value equal to 100.
The current EdT does not have the same "value force", and arrive at a mere 50 .
The vintage aftershave is very diluted, it's the weakest, but still retains some wonderful qualities of the vintage, and will have a "strenght" of 25.
At this point, adding vintage aftershave and modern EdT we will have an apparent strength of 50 +25 = 75 ... or even more.
So we will be able to come very close to the fantastic vintage perfume. One of the most amazing results using this technique is Antaeus by Chanel. The vintage EdT is almost impossible to find, while vintage aftershaves are available for cheap prices. You can layer aftershave with modern Edt and get a incredible sensation of "vintage Antaeus".

WARNING: never mix aftershave and perfume in a bottle, since unexpected chemical reactions may occur, and ruin the whole mixture. Always apply before the shave and then the EdT, but keeping them in separate bottles.


Raiders of the lost scent
Extraordinary results: ANTAEUS by Chanel
Vintage aftershave and modern EdT

Very good results: Versace l'Homme
(vintage AS and Modern EdT)

Raiders of the lost scent
Layering with Caron's Yatagan,
...and you will obtain a double scimitar.


LAYERING.
Per "Layering" si intende l'azione del "porre uno strato" sopra qualcos'altro.
In profumeria si parla di layering quando si vogliono raggiungere nuovi effetti o anche "inventare" nuovi profumi, applicando prima un profumo e subito dopo -esattamente sopra il precedente- un'altro profumo differente. 
Si possono così fare Layerings di profumi dolci aggiungendo profumi aspri, ottenendo (teoricamente) infinite combinazioni.
Ma il Layering è una risorsa straordinaria anche per un altro motivo, e cioè per "simulare", con ottimi risultati, i profumi vintage di cui non abbiamo possesso. Come si fa? E' semplicissimo. 
Bisogna avere a disposizione il dopobarba (aftershave) vintage, e il profumo (EdT) moderno. 
Inizialmente si applica il dopobarba Vintage, lo si lascia asciugare, e subito dopo si applica la normale EdT sullo stesso punto. Magicamente sembrerà che il vintage domini la scena, con un effetto davvero piacevole. 
Cosa è successo? in pratica, un effetto sinergico. Supponiamo che l'EdT vintage (che non possediamo) abbia una forza (valore) pari a 100. l'EdT attuale (che possediamo) non ha la stessa forza e si ferma a un mero 50. 
Il dopobarba vintage è assai diluito ma possiede seppur attenuate le bellissime qualità del vintage, e avrà una forza pari a 25.
A questo punto aggiungendo dopobarba vintage ed EdT moderno succede che avremo una forza apparente pari a 50+25=75...o anche oltre. Riusciremo così ad avvicinarci molto a quello che era l'inarrivibile EdT d'epoca.

Perchè il Layering può essere conveniente? Perchè in alcuni casi trovare l'EdT vintage è quasi impossibile, o per la reperibilità, o per il prezzo eccessivo. I dopobarba sono invece ancora disponibili a prezzi abbordabili, e si può ricorrere così al trucco del layering per avere un effetto il più possibile simile a quello "d'epoca".
Provate anche voi! 

Attenzione: non mescolare mai dopobarba e profumo dentro un flacone: potrebbero avvenire reazioni chimiche inaspettate, e rovinare tutta la miscela. Applicate sempre prima il dopobarba e poi l'EdT, ma tenendoli in flaconi ben separati.



Raiders of the lost scent


Raiders of the lost scent



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